Day 7: Burma to Hindustan

Woke up to someone khaakh-ing their lungs out outside my window (what’s with men retching and spitting early in the mornings?). It was freezing in the night and took me a long while to get to sleep and now warmly cocooned in a tangle of dust-mite infested blanket, my big shawl, my neck shawl, socks…

Day 6: Burma to Hindustan

They say nothing special about Kalaymyo. Just another small town on the way. But sometimes it’s the small, unassuming places that stay in your memories forever. The ‘hotel’ was a family owned affair complete with a niece on reception, a cousin in the kitchen, a son who continued the business and a mama grandmother who…

Day 5: Burma to Hindustan

Location: Monwya Time: 5.45am Target: A cup of tea Threw on my jacket over my pjs and went out on the streets to look for a cup of tea. Didn’t have to venture out too far when I spotted a bustling stall in the dark street. Tea was Indian style with lots of condensed milk…

Day 4: Burma to Hindustan

My journey towards the border in a way truly begins from today. From this point, I will be venturing off the tourist circuit well into northern Burma. Taxi dropped me off at the bus stop. (stupid hotel called the same guy from yesterday *sigh*). 15 minutes later, a minivan screeches stop smack bang in the…

Kashmir to Ladakh: On The Old Central Asia Trade Route

I knew I couldn’t hack a 14-hour road trip and considering past experience with higher altitudes, it made sense to break the journey with a recommended night stopover in Kargil. However I realized the next day was Eid and it was possible that the dominantly Muslim town would be closed down and I wouldn’t get…