Fiji Mountains & Yam Samosas For The Soul!

I’m sitting here in causal talanoa after a traditional welcome kava ceremony in the cool, dim village-hall of Nabutautau but my mind’s hardly on the conversation in the room. I am staring out the low doorway of the bure at what looks very much like a sacrificial rock alter and encircled open space where perhaps once-upon-a-time chiefly tribal ceremonies took…

Long Layover in Fiji? Try A Thermal Mud Bath!

We’ve all been there. Sitting around an airport on the brink of tears from boredom in between flights especially if it’s a hole like LAX International or a domestic air terminal in the middle of nowhere with a broken vending machine and 3 plastic seats bolted to the floor (because they tend to disappear!). With Fiji…

India to Nepal: A 2-Day Journey

You know that feeling in the morning after a big night out? Your head is going doosh, doosh, doosh…your stomach is like you’ve been on the ferries wheel a ride too long, your legs hurt in places you didn’t know you had muscles and you just want to die. And in your agony, you promise…

What I Forgot About Traveling

I’ve been hogging the same spot in this cafe every afternoon for the past three days. Overlooking the dark waters of Borsola Beel with the afternoon sun streaming in, sipping some very passable cappuccinos and Assam tea. I absently watch the hip and urban of Guwahati stream in and out to the beat of some really good…

Once Lived Nagas in Longwa

They wouldn’t let me take a photo of the Angh. He wasn’t feeling too well. Actually the headman of Longwa was very poorly but nobody seemed to really care in that room because everyone was too busy getting high. Sitting in the Angh’s long house on the Burmese side, I thought back of the week…

The Tranced Villages of Nagaland

It’s not everyday that you find yourself being offered tea and fire-popped corn by a Naga Angh (headman) in his opium den. And when that happens, do you? – a) Say no thanks (and risk offending the chief of a once-were-headhunters tribe)? b) Take the tea and say thanks. (and hope that the tea is not…

Coldly, Kohima

All my savviness from the day before went out the window by the time we hauled up the cold mountains of Kohima. A shared jeep took 7 hours (supposedly a 3 hour ride) to reach the mountain town center only to arrive and get stuck in the evening traffic. They offloaded me on the roadside and…